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Our rubberized landing craft bucked and rolled as it nosed into the surf off the beach. We pivoted on our rears, dropped off the rounded sides of the boat into the shallow waters and then waded ashore. Off to our left somewhere, a low "uuurrrrhhhhhh" - - a combination roar and guttural howl_greeted our arrival.
"Howler monkeys," said our guide, with a nod to the forest. "Perhaps we will see them today."
Our small band, ranging in age from 70-plus down to 16, walked off the beach and entered the forest of the Curu Wildlife Refuge, a private reserve filled with a lush mixture of coconut palms, deciduous trees, huge ferns, vines as thick as arms and the low vegetation of mangrove swamps. We were on the first day of a nature-oriented cruise of the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, a country noted for its national parks and wildlife refuges. During our six days on board, we explored tropical forests of both the wet and dry varieties, and saw numerous monkeys, exotic birds and parrots, lizards as small as a finger or as long as a man's leg, delicate orchids and other wildly colorful exotic plants.
This cruise was unlike all our previous cruises, and many not be for everyone. What our cruise on the Temptress Explorer offered us what a journey into a landscape filled with animals and plants that we see only in zoos and arboretums at home. Each day of our journey was organized into two different segments. The early mornings were reserved for hikes, with three or four different treks offered each day. The hikes varied in length from 1.5 to 3.5 hours as well as in difficulty_- -from easy hikes over flat land to more strenuous routes usually described as "very difficult." Each walk was led by guides who were very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna of the region. Late afternoons were for watersports - -swimming from the beach or boat, snorkeling over reefs, or sea kayaking.
The meals served on board or at beach barbecues were excellent. Cabin service was twice daily and limited free laundry service was available. Unlike many larger cruise ships, the Temptress Explorer did not have a nightclub or casino, and the shore tours did not include visits to craft bazaars or jewelry arcades. Only one stop was at a port town, and even there passengers were hard-pressed to find souvenirs or crafts. And finally, on most of our previous cruises, we could keep up on world events via radio or CNN.
But this isolation was a perfect counterpart to this voyage into nature. The 99-passenger, 185-foot-long Temptress Explorer, built in Seattle, has a shallow draft that allows it to navigate the shallow coastal waters. All of the comfortable cabins (23 with two twin beds, 23 with queen beds and four suites) are air-conditioned with individual controls and all have private baths and large windows. Free snorkeling equipment and sea kayaks were provided for our beach activities. The guided hikes were included as part of the fare.
The ship sailed from Puntarenas, a port city about two hours' drive west of San Jose, the capital where the main airport is located. The two of us and our 16-year-old son Jonathan were on the six-night Pacific Voyage (three night cruises are also available). The first stop was at the Curu Wildlife Refuge, followed by a visit to the nearby Tortuga Island, where we snorkeled and had an evening beach barbecue with a bonfire. The next stops included parks and refuges probably unfamiliar to many travelers:
* Corcovado National Park on the west coast of the Peninsula de Osa, which is known for its old-growth forest. The towering trees were home to scarlet macaws, who preferred to roost in the top branches.
* Golfo Dulce, a region less than 30 miles from the border with Panama, where we toured the privately-owned Casa Orquideas (House of Orchids), a spectacular botanical garden displaying, of course, orchids and other flowering trees and enough spice plants and trees - - pepper, cilantro, lemon, lime and cinnamon - - to thrill any chef. The ship then sailed a short distance to the only Golfito, a banana-exporting port that fell on hard times after the United Fruit Co. shifted its operations elsewhere after labor disputes in the 1980s. This small port was where the three-day passengers departed and a new set of adventure seekers boarded.
* Cano Island, where we took a disappointing glass-bottom boat tour of the reefs. The beaches on the island were stunning, pristine golden strands that were home to countless hermit crabs. The island, which was once considered by Steven Speilberg to be the setting of his movie "Jurassic Park" (the government turned him down) , was used as a burial ground by the pre-Columbia natives in the region. Large stone balls and other artifacts can be found in the densely forested interior of the national park area.
Throughout all these stops, the sightseeing in the forests was exceptional. The guides cheerfully shared their knowledge of the forest, all the while keeping a watchful eye on those hikers who seemed to have difficulty making the treks. All the guides carried binoculars, which they shared for those without, and one even had a spotting scope on a tripod, which was great for helping us see closeups of the shy animals who live in the lush jungle.
And animals we did see: spider and white-faced monkeys; the brilliant scarlet macaws; the small lizards known as geckos and their three-foot-long cousins, the green and black iguanas; toucans; hummingbirds and even a sloth or two. The foliage we saw was no less wonderful. Wild orchids, from the size of a pea to some as large as a tulip, hibiscus, birds of paradise, coconut palms, breadfruit, papaya, lime and lemon trees, pink bromeliads, and countless other flowers.
The last stop during our cruise was Manuel Antonio National Park, a 1700-acre protected zone classified was a humid tropical forest. We were on the late hike, an easy walk along the neck of a peninsula that separated two crescent-shaped beaches. The park, a popular destination for Ticos, as Costa Rica residents are called, is located next to a resort area with homes, condos and hotels. We had just started our walk when the guide stopped and pointed to the top of a tree. "There he is," he said. "See it? A white face monkey."
The monkey stopped his search for food and peered down at us. Intrigued, it appeared, by what he saw, he began jumping for tree limb to tree limb, moving closer to the ground and nearer our route. We followed the monkey until he came to a branch about 10 feet over our head. There, he took long, curious look. Then, seemingly satisfied or disgusted by what he saw, turned, squawked and disappeared into the forest.
It was a fitting finale to our week in the jungle.
The Temptress Explorer offers three- and six-night cruises. Temptress Voyages' other ship, the 62-passenger Temptress Voyager, makes three- and six-night nature-oriented cruises off the coast of Belize. Temptress Voyages also offers a supervised children's program, including beach activities, sand castle contests, journal writing, educational hikes, and a separate menu and dining area. The ship and the cruise are not recommended for passengers with mobility problems. For more information, call 800/336-8423 or see a travel agent.